Bouchées à la Reine aux Fruits de Mer

Make the shellfish stock: combine the reserved prawn shells, onion, celery, carrot, bay leaf, peppercorns, white wine, and cold water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer for 25 minutes.

Strain the stock through a fine sieve, pressing the shells firmly. Return the strained stock to the pan and reduce over high heat until you have 500 ml of intensely flavoured liquid. Set aside.

Roll the cold puff pastry on a lightly floured surface to 5 mm thickness. Using a 9 cm round cutter, stamp out 8 discs. Place 4 discs on a lined baking tray. Using a 6 cm cutter, score a lid circle into the centre of the remaining 4 discs without cutting all the way through.

Brush the base discs with egg wash, then lay one scored disc on top of each, aligning the edges. Brush the tops with egg wash, avoiding the cut sides so the pastry can rise freely.

Refrigerate the assembled vol-au-vent shells for 30 minutes uncovered to firm the butter and help them rise evenly.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (fan 180°C). Bake the vol-au-vents for 22–25 minutes until deep golden and fully puffed. Immediately press down and remove the scored lids with a small knife, scoop out any soft inner pastry to create a hollow case, and set the lids aside. Keep the cases warm in the switched-off oven.

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the shallot and sweat for 3–4 minutes until softened and translucent without any colour.

Add the flour and stir constantly for 2 minutes until the roux smells nutty and pale.

Add the warm milk in a steady stream, whisking constantly, followed by 350 ml of the shellfish stock. Whisk vigorously and cook over medium heat for 5–6 minutes, stirring continuously, until the velouté is thick and coats the back of a spoon well. Add the cognac and simmer for 1 further minute.

Season the prawns, scallops, and salmon with salt and white pepper. Add all three to the velouté and poach gently over low heat for 4–5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the prawns are pink and the salmon is just opaque. Insert a meat thermometer into the thickest piece of fish to confirm it has reached an internal temperature of 63°C before proceeding.

Gently fold in the crab meat and remove from the heat.

Whisk the egg yolks with the double cream in a small bowl. Stir several ladlefuls of the hot velouté into the liaison to temper it, then pour the tempered mixture back into the pan, stirring constantly. Do not return to the boil. Finish with lemon juice, tarragon, and parsley, then taste and adjust seasoning.

Spoon the seafood filling generously into the warm pastry cases, allowing it to mound slightly above the rim. Rest the pastry lids at an angle on top and serve immediately.