Chicken Vallée d'Auge

Pat the chicken pieces completely dry with kitchen paper. Season all over with the salt and pepper. Finely dice the shallots, celery, and leek, mince the garlic, peel and wedge the apples, and measure all remaining ingredients before beginning to cook.

Heat the butter and neutral oil in a large, wide, heavy-bottomed casserole or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until the butter foam subsides. Add the chicken pieces skin-side down in a single layer without crowding — work in two batches if necessary — and sear until the skin is deep golden brown and releases easily from the pan, about 5–6 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and carefully add the Calvados to the pan. Tilt the pan or use a long match to ignite it, then shake gently until the flames die out completely, about 30–45 seconds.

Add the shallots, celery, and leek to the pan and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes.

Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Pour in the hard cider and chicken stock. Add the thyme sprigs and bay leaf, then nestle the chicken pieces back into the pan skin-side up, along with any resting juices. Bring to a gentle simmer.

Cover the casserole with a lid slightly ajar and braise at a low simmer until the breast pieces register 74°C on an instant-read meat thermometer, about 25 minutes. Remove the breast pieces to a warm plate. Continue braising the legs and thighs until they also reach 74°C, about a further 10 minutes, then remove and rest with the breasts. Discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf.

While the chicken braises, melt the remaining tablespoon of butter in a non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the apple wedges in a single layer, sprinkle over the caster sugar, and cook undisturbed until caramelised and golden on the cut sides, about 3 minutes per side. Set aside.

Increase the heat under the braising liquid to medium-high and reduce the sauce, uncovered, until it has reduced by roughly one-third and is slightly syrupy, about 8 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche and egg yolks until smooth. Reduce the heat under the pan to the lowest setting. Whisk the crème fraîche mixture into the braising liquid a little at a time, then heat gently, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon — do not allow it to boil or the sauce will curdle, about 3–4 minutes.

Stir in the lemon juice and taste for seasoning. Return the chicken pieces to the pan, nestling them into the sauce to warm through for 2 minutes. Arrange the caramelised apple wedges around the chicken, scatter with the chopped parsley, and serve immediately.