Classic Milanese Panettone

Finely grate the zest of 2 unwaxed oranges and 1 unwaxed lemon. Set aside. Soak the golden raisins in warm water for 10 minutes, then drain and pat thoroughly dry. Roughly chop the candied orange peel. Cut 160 g of softened butter into 1 cm cubes.

Make the poolish: combine the yeast, warm milk (35°C), and 120 g sifted bread flour in a large bowl. Stir until a thick, smooth batter forms. Cover tightly with cling film and rest at room temperature for 1 hour.

Refrigerate the poolish for 12–16 hours until bubbly and doubled in size.

Remove the poolish from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature for 1 hour. Meanwhile, whisk together the 3 eggs, 2 egg yolks, and caster sugar in a jug until the sugar begins to dissolve. Whisk in the salt, vanilla extract, dark rum, orange zest, and lemon zest.

Add the egg mixture to the poolish and stir to combine. Add the remaining 280 g sifted bread flour and mix with a dough hook on medium speed, or by hand, for 8–10 minutes until a smooth, cohesive dough forms that pulls cleanly away from the sides of the bowl.

With the mixer running on medium-low speed, add the softened butter one cube at a time, waiting until each piece is fully incorporated before adding the next. This process will take 12–15 minutes. The finished dough should be silky, slightly sticky, and pass the windowpane test — stretch a small piece between your fingers; it should form a thin, translucent membrane without tearing.

Fold in the candied orange peel, drained raisins, and chocolate chips (if using) by hand until evenly distributed. Shape the dough into a ball, place it in a lightly oiled bowl, and cover tightly with cling film.

Prove at room temperature (22–24°C) for 4–6 hours until the dough has roughly doubled in size.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Without degassing it, fold the edges toward the centre, flip the dough seam-side down, and use cupped hands to drag it toward you in short strokes, building a tight surface tension. Place the dough seam-side down into a 1 kg panettone paper mould set on a baking tray.

Cover the mould loosely with oiled cling film and prove at room temperature for a further 6–8 hours until the dome rises 2–3 cm above the rim of the mould.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C fan / Gas 4).

Score a shallow cross in the top of the dough with a sharp blade and place the 1 tbsp of melted butter into the centre of the cross. Bake on the lower middle rack for 45–50 minutes until deep mahogany brown. Use a meat thermometer inserted through the side into the centre of the panettone — the target internal temperature is 93–96°C. If the top colours too quickly, tent loosely with foil.

Immediately remove the panettone from the oven. Skewer two long metal skewers or knitting needles horizontally through the base of the mould. Suspend the panettone upside down between two tall pots or over a deep roasting tin and cool completely for at least 3 hours — this is essential to prevent the delicate dome from collapsing.