Mushroom Bourguignon

Place the dried porcini in a heatproof bowl and pour over the boiling water. Set aside to soak for 20 minutes, then lift out the mushrooms, roughly chop them, and strain the soaking liquid through a fine sieve or muslin, reserving both the porcini and the liquid.

Halve the chestnut mushrooms, cut the portobellos into chunks, peel the pearl onions, slice the garlic, dice the celery, and cut the carrots into rounds. Measure out the wine, stock, tomato paste, soy sauce, mustard, and flour so everything is ready before the pan goes on the heat.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or casserole over high heat until shimmering. Add the chestnut and portobello mushrooms in a single layer, working in two batches if needed, and cook without stirring for 3-4 minutes until deeply browned on one side, then toss and cook for a further 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and transfer to a bowl.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining olive oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter to the pot. Add the pearl onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 minutes until golden and beginning to soften.

Add the carrots, celery, and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes until softened and fragrant.

Add the chopped rehydrated porcini and the tomato paste and stir constantly for 2 minutes until the paste darkens slightly and coats the vegetables.

Scatter the flour over the vegetables and stir for 1 minute to cook out the raw flour taste.

Pour in the red wine, increase the heat to medium-high, and bring to a vigorous simmer, scraping up any browned bits from the base of the pot. Cook for 10 minutes until the wine has reduced by roughly one third.

Add the reserved porcini soaking liquid, vegetable stock, soy sauce, thyme, rosemary, and bay leaves. Stir to combine, then return the browned mushrooms and any collected juices to the pot.

Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, for 25 minutes until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon and the carrots are completely tender.

Remove the thyme, rosemary, and bay leaves. Stir in the remaining butter and the Dijon mustard. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve over mashed potato, buttered pappardelle, or crusty bread, scattered with fresh parsley.