Roasted Veal Chop with Girolles

Pat the veal chops completely dry with kitchen paper. Season all surfaces, including the fat cap and bone, evenly with the fine sea salt and white pepper.

Place the seasoned chops uncovered on a wire rack set over a tray and refrigerate for 12–24 hours to dry-brine.

Remove the chops from the refrigerator and allow them to rest at room temperature for 45 minutes before cooking. Preheat the oven to 190°C (170°C fan / gas 5).

Heat 2 tablespoons of clarified butter in a large, heavy ovenproof skillet (cast iron ideal) over high heat until the butter shimmers and just begins to smoke. Sear the veal chops for 3 minutes per side without moving them until a deep mahogany crust forms, then sear the fat cap upright, held with tongs, for 1 minute.

Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part reads 63°C for a firm, evenly cooked medium centre, approximately 14–18 minutes depending on thickness.

Transfer the chops to a warm plate, tent loosely with foil, and rest for 8 minutes — expect the internal temperature to rise a further 2–5°C as it rests — while you build the sauce.

Discard all but a thin film of fat from the skillet and return it to medium heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of clarified butter and sauté the shallots with the thyme sprigs and bay leaf, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes until completely soft and translucent but not coloured.

Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute until fragrant, then pour in the dry vermouth and scrape up all browned bits from the base of the pan with a wooden spoon.

Allow the vermouth to reduce until the pan is almost dry and the sharp alcohol aroma has mellowed, approximately 3 minutes.

Pour in the warm veal stock and reduce over medium-high heat for 4 minutes until the liquid is slightly syrupy and coats the back of a spoon.

Reduce the heat to medium-low, stir in the crème fraîche, and simmer gently for 2 minutes until the sauce is lightly thickened and glossy. Remove and discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf.

In a separate wide skillet over high heat, add the remaining cold cubed butter and wait until it foams. Add the girolles in a single layer without crowding — cook in batches if needed — and leave them completely undisturbed for 3 minutes until they colour and any released moisture evaporates.

Season the girolles with salt and white pepper, toss once, and cook for a further 1 minute until golden at the edges and just tender.

Fold the sautéed girolles into the sauce in the first pan, stir in the parsley and chives, and taste for seasoning. Plate each veal chop, spoon the girolles and sauce generously over and around, and serve immediately.