Vegetarian Cullen Skink

Peel and cube the potatoes, slice the leeks, dice the onion and celery, mince the garlic, coarsely grate the smoked cheddar, and finely chop the chives. Keep everything in separate bowls ready to go.

Place a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over a low-medium heat and melt the butter with the olive oil. Add the onion, celery, and a pinch of salt, stirring occasionally, until completely soft and translucent but not coloured — about 12 minutes.

Add the leeks and garlic, stir to coat in the butter, and cook gently over a low heat, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are fully collapsed and sweet — about 10 minutes.

Stir in the smoked paprika and Dijon mustard and cook for 1 minute until fragrant, then add the bay leaves, potato cubes, milk, and vegetable stock. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

Increase the heat to medium and bring the soup slowly to a gentle simmer, then reduce the heat to low and cook uncovered until the potatoes are completely tender and beginning to fall apart at the edges — about 20 minutes.

Remove the bay leaves. Use a potato masher or the back of a large spoon to crush roughly one-third of the potatoes directly in the pot, leaving the rest in chunks to give the soup its characteristic thick, textured body.

Pour in the double cream and stir through the grated smoked cheddar, stirring constantly over a low heat until the cheese is fully melted and the soup is glossy and creamy — about 2 minutes. Do not boil once the cream and cheese are added.

Taste and adjust seasoning. Ladle into warmed bowls and finish with a generous scattering of chives and a crack of black pepper.