Classic Brandade de Morue

Submerge the salt cod in a large bowl of cold water, skin-side up. Cover and refrigerate, changing the water every 8–12 hours, for 24–48 hours until the fish is pliable and mild but still pleasantly saline when tasted.

Place the potatoes in a saucepan of cold salted water, bring to a boil, and cook until completely tender when pierced with a knife, about 15–18 minutes. Drain and pass through a ricer or food mill into a bowl; set aside and keep warm.

Drain and rinse the desalted cod. Combine the milk, 2 garlic clove halves, thyme and bay leaf in a wide saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the cod and poach gently — the liquid should barely tremble — for 10–12 minutes until the fish flakes easily. Check with a meat thermometer that the thickest piece has reached an internal temperature of at least 63°C before removing the cod with a slotted spoon. Reserve the poaching milk and discard the aromatics.

Finely grate or crush the remaining 6 garlic clove halves into a paste using the flat of a knife and a pinch of salt; set aside.

Warm the olive oil in a small saucepan over the lowest heat until just warm to the touch, about 50°C — it must never simmer.

Flake the warm cod into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a pestle and mortar for the traditional method). Beat on medium speed for 1 minute to break the fish into fine threads.

With the mixer running on medium-low, alternately stream in the warm olive oil and reserved poaching milk in a slow, steady drizzle, allowing full incorporation between additions, until the mixture is creamy and emulsified.

Fold in the warm riced potato, garlic paste, lemon zest, a squeeze of lemon juice, white pepper and nutmeg. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and lemon juice; the texture should be light, spreadable and just hold its shape.

Brush the bread triangles with olive oil and toast under a grill or in a dry skillet over high heat until deep golden on both sides, about 2–3 minutes per side.

Transfer the brandade to a warm earthenware dish, drizzle generously with extra-virgin olive oil, scatter the parsley over the top, and serve immediately with the toasted bread alongside.