Pike Quenelles with Sauce Américaine

Remove the heads and shells from the prawns, reserving the meat for another use. Dice the shallot, carrot and celery, and mince the garlic. Measure out the cognac, wine, stock and passata. Cube the butter portions and keep refrigerated. Cut the pike fillets into rough 3cm cubes, spread on a cold plate, and refrigerate along with the egg whites and double cream.

Make the panade: bring the water and 55g butter to a rolling boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, then remove from the heat, add the flour all at once, and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture pulls cleanly from the sides and forms a smooth ball. Return to low heat and stir constantly for 2 minutes until the paste dries slightly and a thin film forms on the base of the pan.

Transfer the panade to a stand mixer bowl. Beat on medium speed, adding the beaten eggs a little at a time, until fully incorporated and the paste is smooth and glossy. Season with the salt and nutmeg, spread flat on a plate, press cling film directly onto the surface, and refrigerate until completely cold — at least 1 hour.

Chill the bowl and blade of a food processor in the freezer for 15 minutes. Process the cold pike cubes with the salt and white pepper to a smooth paste, scraping down the sides frequently, about 2 minutes.

Add the cold panade to the processor and blend until fully combined, about 1 minute.

With the processor running, pour the cold egg whites through the feed tube in a steady stream, then add the cold double cream, processing until just combined — do not overwork. Pass the forcemeat through a fine drum sieve, pressing with a plastic scraper. Taste by poaching a small spoonful in simmering salted water for 3 minutes, then adjust the seasoning. Cover and refrigerate while you make the sauce.

Make the sauce américaine: heat the olive oil in a large heavy saucepan or rondeau over high heat until smoking. Add the prawn shells and heads in a single layer and roast, stirring occasionally, for 5–6 minutes until deeply caramelised and brick-red.

Reduce the heat to medium, add the shallot, carrot, celery and garlic, and cook for 4 minutes until softened and lightly golden.

Add the tomato purée and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes until it darkens slightly.

Remove the pan from the heat, add the cognac, then return to high heat and flambé, or boil vigorously for 1 minute, until the alcohol smell dissipates.

Add the white wine and boil for 3 minutes until reduced by half.

Add the fish stock, passata and bouquet garni. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer and cook for 20 minutes.

Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean saucepan, pressing firmly on the shells and vegetables to extract every drop of flavour. Discard the solids.

Return the strained sauce to medium heat and reduce for 8–10 minutes until it coats the back of a spoon.

Off the heat, whisk in the cold butter cubes one at a time, then the tablespoon of cream. Season with the cayenne, salt and white pepper, and keep warm over the lowest possible heat.

Bring the fish stock or salted water to a gentle simmer — around 90°C, with no vigorous bubbling — in a wide, deep pan. Using two large wet tablespoons, form the forcemeat into smooth oval shapes and gently lower them into the simmering liquid in batches of 4–5.

Poach the quenelles for 12–15 minutes, turning once halfway through, until they have puffed and feel firm yet springy to a light touch. Verify doneness with a thermometer — the centre should read 63°C.

Remove the quenelles with a slotted spoon and drain briefly on a clean kitchen towel. Preheat your grill to high. Butter a large gratin dish generously, arrange the quenelles in it, and spoon the sauce américaine generously over them.

Place the gratin dish under the grill for 4–5 minutes until the sauce is bubbling and the tops of the quenelles are lightly golden and glazed. Serve immediately.