Roasted Saddle of Lamb with Garlic and Rosemary

Remove the saddle from the refrigerator and pat it dry all over with kitchen paper. Using a small sharp knife, cut 20–24 deep slits (about 2cm deep) across the fat cap and upper surface. Into each slit, push a slice of garlic and a half anchovy fillet together, pressing them flush with the surface.

In a small bowl, combine the Dijon mustard, chopped rosemary leaves, olive oil, salt and pepper to form a thick paste. Rub this all over the saddle, working it into the surface. Place on a rack in a roasting tin, tuck the whole rosemary sprigs, thyme and crushed garlic beneath the rack, and leave uncovered at room temperature for 1 hour to take the chill off before roasting.

Preheat the oven to 240°C, or 220°C for a fan oven, or gas mark 9. Place the saddle on its rack into the hot oven and roast for 15 minutes, until the fat cap is deeply golden and beginning to blister — you should hear a steady, vigorous sizzle.

Reduce the oven temperature to 190°C, or 170°C for a fan oven, or gas mark 5 and continue roasting for 20–25 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the loin reads 63°C — the safe minimum internal temperature for lamb. At this point the meat is still a rosy, blush-pink throughout, the classic doneness most French cooks look for in a roasted saddle. Confirm the reading before removing from the oven; do not pull it earlier and rely on resting to reach this temperature.

Lift the saddle onto a warmed platter, tent loosely with foil, and rest for 20 minutes. The internal temperature will climb a further 2–5°C to around 65–68°C as it rests — this resting step is purely for a juicier result, since you have already confirmed the safe temperature before removing it from the oven.

While the lamb rests, set the roasting tin directly over a medium-high burner. Pour in the white wine and scrape up the caramelised bits vigorously with a wooden spoon until the wine reduces by half and smells nutty, about 3 minutes.

Add the lamb stock and bring to a brisk simmer. Reduce until the jus lightly coats the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes, then remove from the heat.

Whisk the cold butter cubes into the jus one at a time until glossy and slightly thickened. Season to taste, strain through a fine sieve into a warmed jug, and serve alongside the carved saddle.