Scallop Émincé with Cream and Morels

Place the dried morels in a bowl and cover with the warm water. Set aside to soak for 30 minutes. Morels are toxic raw or undercooked, so this soak is only the first stage — they must still be thoroughly cooked later. Once rehydrated, lift the morels out, squeeze gently, and halve any large ones lengthwise. Strain the soaking liquid through a fine sieve lined with a piece of kitchen paper — it carries a gritty sediment — and reserve 150ml of the clear dark liquid, discarding the rest.

Slice each scallop horizontally into 3 even rounds. Pat every slice completely dry with kitchen paper. Season lightly with half the salt and the white pepper.

Heat a large, heavy-bottomed sauté pan over medium heat and melt 20g of the butter. Add the shallots and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until completely softened and translucent, about 4 minutes — they should not colour.

Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Raise the heat to medium-high, add the rehydrated morels, and sauté until they begin to colour at the edges, about 3 minutes — this thorough cooking is essential, since morels remain toxic if only lightly warmed.

Remove the pan from the heat, add the Cognac, return to the heat, and tilt carefully to flambé, or simply let the alcohol cook off for 1 minute, stirring.

Pour in the white wine and cook at a vigorous simmer, scraping up any browned bits, until reduced by half, about 3 minutes.

Add the reserved morel soaking liquid and reduce again by half over medium-high heat, about 4 minutes — the liquid should be deeply coloured and aromatic.

Pour in the double cream, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until the sauce coats the back of a spoon thickly, about 5 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. Keep the sauce at a very gentle simmer.

In a separate large non-stick or stainless skillet, heat the oil and remaining 20g butter over high heat until the butter foam subsides. Working in a single layer without crowding, sear the scallop slices for 45 seconds per side — they should be golden at the edges and just opaque through to the centre, reaching an internal temperature of 63°C on an instant-read thermometer. Sear in batches if necessary; do not move them while the first side cooks.

Transfer the seared scallop slices into the morel cream sauce, add the lemon juice, and fold gently to coat — do not return to high heat. Scatter with parsley and chives and serve immediately in warmed bowls with crusty bread or alongside steamed basmati.