Vegan Seitan in Charcutière Sauce

Whisk the vital wheat gluten, chickpea flour, nutritional yeast, smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, salt and black pepper in a large bowl. In a jug, combine the cold vegetable stock, soy sauce, 1 tbsp of the tomato paste and 1 tbsp of the olive oil, then pour into the dry ingredients and mix with a fork until a shaggy dough forms. Knead by hand for 3 minutes until smooth and elastic, then divide into 4 portions and press each into a flat cutlet about 1.5cm thick.

Bring the poaching stock, bay leaf, thyme and peppercorns to a gentle simmer in a large saucepan over medium heat. Lower the seitan cutlets in with tongs, reduce the heat to low so the stock barely trembles, and poach for 30 minutes, turning once at the halfway point.

Remove the cutlets to a wire rack and pat thoroughly dry with kitchen paper — surface moisture is the enemy of a good sear. While they rest, finely mince the shallots, garlic and parsley, and slice the cornichons.

Heat 2 tbsp of the olive oil in a heavy skillet over high heat until just smoking. Sear the seitan cutlets for 3 minutes without moving them, until the underside is deeply browned and releases cleanly from the pan.

Flip the cutlets and sear the second side for 2 minutes until equally coloured. Transfer to a plate.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining 2 tbsp olive oil to the same pan. Add the shallots and cook, stirring frequently, for 6–8 minutes until deeply golden and soft.

Add the garlic and remaining 2 tbsp tomato paste, stir to coat, and cook for 2 minutes until the paste darkens slightly and smells fragrant.

Pour in the white wine and scrape up any browned bits from the base of the pan. Simmer for 4–5 minutes until the wine has reduced by two-thirds and the sharp alcohol smell has cooked off.

Add the vegetable stock and simmer for 5 minutes until the sauce has reduced to a glossy, lightly coating consistency.

Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the Dijon mustard, wholegrain mustard, cornichons, capers, red wine vinegar and sugar. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper — the sauce should be sharp, savoury and just barely sweet.

Nestle the seared seitan cutlets back into the sauce, spoon the sauce over them, and warm over low heat for 2 minutes until heated through. Do not boil after adding the mustard or the sauce will turn bitter.

Scatter with chopped parsley and serve immediately, with crusty bread, steamed potatoes, or buttered noodles.