Creamy Chestnut Soup

Preheat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan). Score each chestnut with a deep X on the flat side, cutting through the shell entirely to prevent bursting.

Spread the scored chestnuts on a baking tray in a single layer and roast for 20–25 minutes until the shells have curled open and the flesh inside is golden and tender when pierced.

Remove the chestnuts from the oven and wrap them tightly in a clean tea towel for 10 minutes — the steam loosens both the outer shell and the bitter inner skin. Peel while still warm, discarding any chestnuts that are dry or mouldy.

Melt the butter in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-low heat until foaming subsides. Add the onion, celery, carrot and garlic with a pinch of salt and sweat gently, stirring occasionally, for 10–12 minutes until completely soft and translucent but not coloured.

Add the thyme sprigs and bay leaf, then pour in the Cognac. Cook, stirring, for 1–2 minutes until the alcohol has evaporated and the pan smells nutty rather than sharp.

Add the peeled chestnuts and pour over the warm vegetable stock. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook uncovered for 20 minutes until the chestnuts are completely tender and beginning to break down at the edges.

Remove the thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Using a high-powered blender, blend the soup in batches on high speed for 2 full minutes per batch until completely smooth and velvety — do not rush this step.

Return the blended soup to a clean pan set over the lowest possible heat. Stir in the nutmeg, white pepper and remaining salt, then remove the pan from the heat entirely.

Stir in the cold creme fraiche in two additions until fully incorporated — adding it off the heat prevents the cream from splitting and keeps the texture glossy.

Ladle into warmed bowls, finish each with a small spoonful of creme fraiche, a few drops of chestnut honey, and a scattering of snipped chives. Serve immediately.