Tofu Armoricaine

Cut the pressed tofu into 6 cm × 3 cm × 2 cm rectangles. Pat each piece thoroughly dry with kitchen paper. Finely dice the onion and shallots; mince the garlic; crush and hand-tear the tomatoes; strip and chop the tarragon leaves, reserving the bare stems.

Wrap the cut tofu loosely in a clean kitchen towel, place a weighted board on top, and press for 20 minutes to expel residual moisture — this stage is unattended.

Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a wide, heavy-based sauté pan or cast-iron skillet over high heat until shimmering and just beginning to smoke. Sear the tofu pieces in a single layer, undisturbed, for 4 minutes per side until a deep, golden-brown crust forms. Remove and set aside.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil to the same pan. Cook the onion and shallots, stirring frequently, for 8 minutes until softened and beginning to turn golden at the edges.

Add the garlic, paprika and cayenne and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute until fragrant.

Remove the pan from the heat. Pour in the Cognac, return to the heat, and carefully tilt the pan to flambé, or use a long match to ignite. Let the flames subside completely, about 30 seconds.

Pour in the white wine and increase the heat to medium-high. Cook for 5 minutes until reduced by half, scraping up any caramelised bits from the base of the pan.

Add the crushed tomatoes, tomato purée, vegetable stock, sugar, tarragon stems, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Stir to combine and bring to a gentle simmer.

Nestle the seared tofu into the sauce, partially cover the pan, and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes until the sauce thickens and coats the back of a spoon.

Discard the tarragon stems and bay leaf. Taste and adjust seasoning. Stir through the chopped tarragon leaves, scatter with flat-leaf parsley, and serve immediately with steamed rice or crusty sourdough.